Cats make excellent pets and have recently overtaken dogs as Britain’s favourite pet. There are many reasons for this shift but it may well be a reflection of the fact that our lifestyles have become busier and more hectic so we no longer have the time to devote to more demanding pets. Cats need less space, less food, don’t need to be walked twice a day and are generally easier to care for. However they can be prone to behaviour problems which may lead to extremely unpleasant ‘deposits’ around the home, ruined furniture and limbs covered in bites and scratches. Here is some information regarding the most common cat behaviour problem and some tips to help treat it…

Failure to use the litter box or house soiling is undoubtedly the most common cat behaviour problem. Cats may stop using their litter box/tray or even have trouble learning to use it in the first place. One thing to remember is that you should never punish the cat by ‘rubbing it’s nose in it’. This method of correction has never worked and will only serve to make the cat even more traumatised, thus adding to the problem.

The three main reasons for failing to use the litter box/tray are: –

1. Medical Problems such as:

? Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD)
? Bacterial Infections
? Tumours
? Kidney Disease
? Liver Disease

Treatment

? Always take the cat to a reputable vet in the first instance in order to rule out the possibility of any medical problems.
? If there is more than one cat in the household, all will need to be examined.

Once all medical problems have been ruled out, you can consider the following: –

2. Problems with the litter box/tray itself:

? Not emptied often enough
? Not clean
? Too many cats using the same box
? Overuse of deodorizers
? Changing the type or brand of the litter
? Changing the location
? Too near to ‘frightening’ domestic appliances e.g. the washing machine

Treatment

? Change the litter at least once every 3 days or as often as daily for some cats
? Ensure deposits are removed on a daily basis
? Clean the box with an odourless disinfectant ? there are many brands available designed especially for litter boxes
? If there is more than one cat in the household, make sure, where possible, each has it’s own litter box
? Introduce any new brand/type of litter a little at a time, mixing it with the old brand/type. Do this until eventually you are using only the new brand. If this doesn’t work, you may have to consider returning to the old brand/type.
? If the box has been moved put it back to where it was previously. If this is not possible, put the box on the spot that the cat is choosing to use and then move it towards the desired new location at a rate of one foot per day
? Move the box away from the ‘frightening’ noise or move the appliance that’s causing the problem
? Consider a covered litter box/tray. This gives the cat more privacy, which many prefer and it also helps with odour control and prevents litter being kicked out of the box.

3. Stress/Trauma:

? New cats introduced to the household
? Visitors, especially large gatherings e.g. a party
? Workmen carrying out work in the household
? Moving house
? A change in routine e.g. new working hours
? Problems with other cats in the neighbourhood
? A new baby

Treatment

? Try to give each cat it’s ‘own space’ within the household and introduce them gradually spending a little more time together each day. The unfortunate fact of the matter is that if the soiling continues to be persistent, then it may be advisable not to keep the second cat
? Remove the cat to another area of the house along with it’s bed, litter box, food and water when visitors are present
? The above point can be used when workmen are in the house as well but if it is likely to be for more than a couple of days or very noisy then you should consider placing the cat in a cattery until the work is finished
? Tranquillisers prescribed by your vet may be effective or consider products like Feliway also available from your vet as a spray or in a diffuser
? A new baby sometimes means the cat can become jealous. Give your cat plenty of attention to reassure it that you still love him/her

Above all, remember that punishing the cat using pain or fear will completely destroy any relationship you may have with him/her. At the very least, discipline in this way is likely to escalate the problem and will very likely result in the cat leaving the household altogether to escape the ‘abusive human behaviour’.

About The Author

Paul Bicknell recommends Solutions To Cat Behaviour Problems. See more at http://www.cat-answers.com.

Removing your cat’s nails is not the only choice in your battle against cat scratching. There are many alternatives to this surgical procedure.

The claws of a feline serve many purposes, most of which are overlooked y owners who just want to protect their belongings. Claws are not just a device for scratching. They are a multi-purpose tool that cats use for many things, such as balance, climbing, defense, kneading, playing, and self-expression.

The act of de-clawing itself involves more than you may think. De-clawing not only removes the nail itself, but also the first knuckle on each toe of the paw. This removal of bone is very painful for the animal, especially since it has to walk on its paws in order to sustain itself. The surgery itself is related to disfiguring, dismembering, and disjointing the animal, resulting in severe pain. It is much more closely related to an amputation, as often the digits of the toe are removed. Upon removal of this end digit, sensory and motor nerves are cut and destroyed; they do not grow back for months. The cat is left to walk on the stub end of the remaining second digit, experiencing considerable pain.

Understanding the physiology of the cat may make this horrific the process easy to comprehend. Cat’s nails are unlike those of humans. They are more similar to the human finger, as the feline nail is a movable digit, attached by muscle. Ligaments and tendons attach to the claw, giving it strength and motor function.

There are several alternatives to the procedure of claw removal:

* Scratching Posts. If scratching furniture is the problem, provide your cat with an adequate scratching post for which to scratch on. Make sure it is as tall as your cat at extended stretch. Do not purchase carpeted posts as your pet will have a hard time differentiating between what carpet she can and cannot scratch. Praise your pet when she uses the post to encourage the behavior.

* Discourage Wrongful Behavior. Each time your cat uses the scratching post, praise her and spend time playing with her near the post. When the animal scratches at the wrong area, say her name followed by the word “no,” and move her to the post. Try dangling a toy in front of the post. When the cat goes for it, she will end up scratching and playing at the post.

* Trim the Claws. Keeping the nails clipped will minimize the need for her to scratch, as well as lesson any damage she can do. Use clippers especially made for cats, and enlist the help of a second person to hold her still. This can be done once per week.

* Nail Covers. Plastic nail caps have been manufactured to aid cat lovers in their attempts to protect their belongings. The plastic sheaths are attached to freshly trimmed claws with glue. They are replaced every month, or as needed.

De-clawing your cat is unnecessary if the proper measures are taken. In fact, the United States and Canada are the only countries where this procedure is performed. It is considered inhumane or illegal in most places.

About The Author

David Beart is the owner of http://www.professorshouse.com. Our site covers household finances, dogs, cats, family, cooking and other household issues.

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