We are very loving and caring cat owners, but even the best intentions, cannot prevent the unexpected.. First meet our lovely cats “Buster and Sparky”.

We adopted Buster at 4 months old from a bad home. He had both physical and emotional abuse from the previous owners. As you can see, Buster unfortunately lost his leg in a tragic home accident. We paid in excess of $1800.00 to save him and it was worth every penny. We gave Buster the special love and attention he so desperately needed. Today he is 4 and is just like any ordinary cat.

Sparky is 2 and has been quite a handful. He had crystals in his kidneys before he was one year old, because he refused to drink water. That cost us over $500.00. Today he is drinking water and back to his mischievous, adventurous ways.

We researched the content created in this site, to provide quick and easy answers. Designed to help others find common solutions to common problems, faced by new and existing cat owners every day. So if you already have a cat or are thinking of getting one. Please click on a topic of your choice and enjoy. Share this website with others, searching to know more about their feline member.

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So if your tired of looking at 5 sites to find what you need. Click no further and check out what we feel is what you need to know.
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We all think that cats are able to keep themselves clean without us. You know that is not the real world. A cat that spends most of their time cleaning, is because they are not being provided a clean environment. Cats can suffer and develop a higher chance of fur balls from not being brushed regularly, also decease from dirty litter boxes. Maintaining a clean place for them will create a healthy cat and home. So we recommend the following tips on how to properly care for your cat or cats

1) Always keep the litter box clean. Clean the box of cat duties. This helps to promote a cat that keeps himself clean, with less chance of getting decease.

2) Allow your cat both dry and wet food daily.

3) Never feed your cat human food.

4) Do not over feed your cat. They maybe sweet when they ask for food. We all understand, animals do not know when too much is not enough.

5) Keep a fresh bowl of water for them at all times.

6) Always groom your cat at least 2 to 3 times a week. This helps prevent fur balls and promotes a healthy coat.

7) Always have an annual checkup. Cats are the most least likely to see any signs of aliment until it’s too late.

8) Allow yourself some playtime, or affection. We all love to be loved and cats are no different.

If you show your cat that they are welcomed, loved and cared for. They will do the same in return.

1) Purchase or build your own kitty condo made from carpeting. This will encourage the cat overtime, to see this as a place to sharpen his nails, play or hang from. A scratch pole is also good as a deterrent.

2) Allow yourself time to play or just be affectionate with them. Cats will always sense in you, that your ready for them.

3) Provide toys that they can throw and chase. A good toy we have is a small rubber colored ball or small stuffed mouse.

4) Allow your cat a place to sleep that is not in the open. Cats like small places to crawl and sleep under or on top of.

5) Try to maintain a routine with your cat. We found that if we changed their routine they became very uneasy. But like everything else not all cats are the same. Cats will be more comfortable, when things are usually done at a certain time of day.

1) Chocolate and other foods containing caffeine. In caffeine there is an alkaloid called theobromine. This can cause in some cases, severe cardiac arrest and nervous system damage to animals.

2) Onions and garlic contain thiosulphate, which can damage red blood cells and cause anemia in cats and dogs.

3) No milk. Some animals are lactose intolerant. As a result some animals can create a breeding ground for bacteria. This causes vomiting and diarrhea.

4) Other human foods to avoid when feeding your pet are: macadamia nuts, potato peelings and green-looking potatoes, rhubarb leaves, moldy/spoiled foods, alcohol, yeast dough, tomato leaves and stems, broccoli, and raisins or grapes.

So, the next time your pet looks up at you with sad eyes, show him you care. Do what is truly best, by feeding them only products meant for pet consumption. In the end your pet will be happy and healthier .

Fortunately, they can buy a cat litter box that can do the scooping for them. This is perfect for busy persons who often forget to scoop the box. These litter boxes come with mechanical attachments that will push the clump of litter into a tray after the cat is done with it. The owners would only need to empty the tray every few days. If their house has multiple stories, it would be good if they can have a box on every floor. They should also keep a box for every cat they have.

Size is an important factor to consider when purchasing a cat litter box. Some cats can be large and may feel cramped in a small, enclosed litter box. They may find it difficult to keep themselves clean if they have to squeeze in. This may discourage them from using the box and cause some problems for their owners. The location of the cat litter box is also an important factor. If the box is located in a noisy area, the cats may not be inclined to use the it. Pet owners should place the boxes in quiet and secluded areas in their homes.

Some people may feel uncomfortable at the sight of the cat litter box, but there are models that will hide the box entirely. These resemble furniture, and most people will not notice the cat litter box unless the owners inform them. These are also effective for keeping stray litter in the box rather than on hardwood floors and carpets. Cats are trainable and will not cause major problems as long as their owners provide a big box located in an easy to reach yet quiet spot.

About The Author

Morgan Hamilton offers expert advice and great tips regarding all aspects concerning Cat Litter Box. Get more information by visiting http://www.petsnewsonline.com/pets–animals/pet-news/choosing-the-right-cat-litter-box.html.

1) It’s best to start when your pet is just a kitten. If they grow up indoors, they may never particularly want to venture out.

2) If possible, providing even a tiny bit of outdoor space (a small terrace, a screened balcony etc) may be enough. Just make sure your cat can’t climb out and possibly fall, or otherwise come to harm. Because animals may try to come IN to the space, you should always be there when your pet is ‘outside’. This is the favorite resource for Oakley, who enjoys nothing more than 30 minutes in the sun on a hot day. Beware of toxic plants, escape routes, or other dangerous things that could harm your kitten.

3) try taking your cat out on a leash. If the area is quiet, you cat may enjoy this. Just remember that if you come across any dogs, you are likely to become a ‘human tree’ for your cat to run up! As a rule, cats don’t like leashes, but if you start early enough, they can be trained to it.

4) Treat your cat to a ‘cat tree’. Cats love to climb (Oakley does!) and it’s great exercise for them.

5) Be sure to play with your cat every day. The best ‘lures’ are always the home made variety. You cat will much prefer to chase an old bit of cloth on a string that YOU have made for her, rather than an expensive shop-bought mouse or some such. This is just a way for your cat to show affection too - they really do value your efforts to entertain and exercise them!

6) A single cat is never as happy as a cat with company. Even on a tight budget, 2 cats cost little more than 1 to keep, and they will both be happier as a result!

7) Hygiene - clean the litter tray and food bowls every day - cats are fastidious, and after all, how would YOU like to eat from a plate that hadn’t been washed up, or use a toilet that hadn’t been flushed?!

8) Don’t forget collars. If your cat should get out, a collar is the surest method of getting her back. Oakley likes to ’shed’ her collar regularly - never give a cat a hard time about this - it’s just a little game they enjoy. If you can afford it, get your cat ‘chipped’. This makes it much easier to reunite you in extremis.

That’s about it for now! If you have enjoyed these tips, or they are useful to you, please feel free to vote for Oakly - http://www.petmillions.com/vote.asp?vote=1054 is the link. It doesn’t cost anything, and you will be supporting animal charities including my favorite cat charity too!

About The Author

Mary Dwightman has 4 cats, aged between 2 and 5. The oldest, ‘Oakley’, is entered in the http://petmillions.com Grand Prize 2007, and you can vote for her here http://www.petmillions.com/vote.asp?vote=1054.

Age 14? I hesitated. That was pretty old. I put him back in the cage and walked around the shelter, looking the other cats over. There were many nice ones, as well as a few kittens.

But my mind kept going back to Morgan, and I realized that, in fact, I had bonded with him. Fourteen years notwithstanding, we had become buddies.

THE PLIGHT OF THE SENIOR CAT

One of the saddest things you’ll see in Animal Shelters is the number of older cats waiting for adoption. By and large, people are looking for kittens.

The older cats languish, many from happy homes where they were loved and cared for, but brought into the shelter for some reason known only to the owner and the cat.

Many people, who don’t like older cats, like kittens. Kittens are cute, cuddly, and funny. They make pleasing pets – but lose their “playfulness” when they grow up, and with it the “love” of their owners.

Somebody said that the mark of a true cat lover is to desire to have grown cats over kittens.

A KITTEN ISN’T ALWAYS WHERE IT’S AT

Many people don’t think through the consequences of adopting a kitten, or of taking one or two kittens from the litter a friend is trying to get rid of, or bringing into your home one left on your doorstep.

Here are a few questions you should ask yourself before you adopt a kitten:

1. Taking care of themselves. Kittens are pretty marginal in being able to take care of themselves, especially when it comes to using a litter box. Do you have time to house train your kitten?

2. Young children. Do you have young children in the house? A child of 2 or 3 may inadvertently kill a kitten. Older children need to be taught how to play with them and need to be closely supervised.

3. Other pets. Are you bringing a kitten home to a household with other, older pets? Make certain you have the time to spend introducing and acclimating your pets to the kitten (and vice versa)

4. House dangers. Is there anything dangerous in your house that could harm a kitten? If you are not home during the day, have you made sure your kitten is safe while unsupervised?

5. Adoptions other than from an animal shelter. .If you are adopting a kitten from a friend, or taking one from a mother cat’s litter, are you prepared to neuter or spay the kitten and give her the vaccinations she needs?

6. Vaccinations. A kitten receives all of her vaccinations over a period of time. You should make sure you have the time and interest to get her the full regimen.

ADOPTING THE SENIOR CAT

Somebody said cats are like shoes: one size doesn’t fit all. Still there are some arguably general reasons for adopting a mature cat over a kitten:

1. An older cat is easier to take care of. In fact, to a great extent, an older cat pretty much can take care of itself. Great for the working person who can’t be home during the day.

2. Older cats are generally calmer than younger ones, and adapt more easily to a new environment.

3. Older cats usually come with their vaccinations and spaying or neutering. A kitten, even adopted from a shelter will need a series of vaccinations.

4. Older cats are better with small children than a kitten is. Better to get an older animal that can defend itself.

5. Older cats are usually housebroken. You’ll have to train a kitten.

6. Older cats can feed and take care of themselves whereas a kitten may need your help – not good for a busy working person.

7. An older cat can “hold its own” against the other family pets (like the dog) better than a kitten can. Unless you’re there to defend it, certain life situations aren’t good for a new kitten.

8. Older cats can better handle a move if you relocate your household. The only thing you have to make sure of is that your cat recognizes your new location as “its den” and doesn’t try to return to your old place.

9. And finally – older cats catch mice. In these days of smarter mice that avoid all known mousetraps, a mature cat can be invaluable.

THE JOY OF OWNING A SENIOR CAT

Well, his name was “Morgan”, but I renamed him “Tab” because he had the typical marks of a Tabby. Tab and I eventually learned to respect each other, and he – although a tough old alley cat – eventually enjoyed sitting in my lap having his battered ears stroked.

He lived five more years, and died at the ripe age of 19. During that time he was my companion during two years of unemployment, providing plenty of understanding, comfort, and love.

One day he definitely “earned his keep”. I found a dead rat in the living room, its neck bitten almost in half. The rat was almost as big as Tab was, but he’d wrestled it down and killed it.

So much for adopting kittens. I’d rather take a tough old alley cat any day of the week.

About The Author

John Young is a writer and a cat lover, having owned one cat or another since he was four, and that was over 57 years ago. He is the author of the E-book: “Your New Cat’s First 24 Hours”, http://www.yourcatsecrets.com.

Cat Scratch Disease (CSD) is also called Cat Scratch Fever and benign lymphoreticulosis. While CSD is found all over the world, it is an uncommon disease.

One estimate by the Centers for Disease Control found that there were 2.5 cases of CSD per 100,000 people per year in the United States. While multiple cases of CSD in one household can occur, this situation is rare. A study in Florida found that more than one member of a family contracted CSD only 3.5% of the time. The majority of individuals who contract CSD are under the age of 17, and are usually under the age of 12.

Typically, a small skin lesion (resembling an insect bite) develops at the site of a cat scratch or (less commonly) a bite, followed within two weeks by swollen lymph nodes and sometimes a fever.

The illness is mild and self-limiting in the majority of patients, although it may take some months for the swollen lymph nodes to return to normal. Treatment is usually not required.

Reports over the last few years, however, have extended the spectrum of problems associated with CSD to include such things as tonsillitis, encephalitis, hepatitis, pneumonia and other serious illnesses in a very small number of cases. People with compromised immune systems, such as AIDS and cancer patients, are most at risk and can become most seriously ill.

Diagnosis of CSD may not be easy. There is no simple diagnostic test. Most physicians rely on history of exposure to a cat , the presence of typical clinical signs, failure to find another cause, and examination of tissues, such as biopsy of a swollen lymph node. Other diseases, such as tuberculosis, brucellosis, and lymphoma, can cause similar symptoms.

Over the years, the cause of CSD had remained elusive, although bacteria were commonly suspected to be the culprit. In 1988, a bacterium called Afipia felis was cultured from the lymph nodes of patients with CSD. In recent years, many studies have implicated the gram negative bacterium Bartonella henselae as the primary (but not the sole) cause of CSD. B. henselae is related to the agent of Trench Fever, B. quintana, a disease common in the trenches of World War I. Other Bartonella species may also be involved in CSD.

Cats are the main reservoir for B. henselae. Surveys for B. henselae antibodies in cats in the United States have found average infection rates to be from 25% to 41% in clinically healthy cats. The lowest rates were in the midwest and great plains regions (4-7%) and the highest were in the southeast (60%).

Warmer, more humid climates are most supportive of fleas, which have been shown to transmit B. henselae from cat to cat. It appears that the majority of cats do not become ill when they are infected with this bacterium and kittens are more commonly infected than adults.

Experimental infections in cats, however, have caused a mild illness with fever, anemia, and transient neurological dysfunction. Once infected, cats carry bacteria in their blood for many months. It is important to note, however, that despite widespread presence of B. henselae in cats, CSD itself is uncommon. It appears that CSD is not easily acquired.

While most patients with CSD have a history of a cat scratch or bite, not all do. Some patients have had no contact with cats at all. This makes the exact modes of transmission unclear.

It is likely that CSD can also be contracted from environmental sources of the bacteria or from other animals. For this reason, the term “bartonellosis” is a better way to describe the variety of illnesses that are caused by B. henselae. Recently, it has been found that dogs can become ill with a related Bartonella species and the role of dogs as a possible reservoir for human infection is undergoing study.

CSD is primarily a concern in homes with immuno- compromised people. Since kittens are more likely to carry B. henselae than adult cats, it is recommended that people with compromised immune systems adopt cats older than 1 year of age as pets to reduce the risk of c ontracting CSD. Any cat suspected of carrying B. henselae should be isolated from sick or immuno - compromised individuals.

However, there is no reliable and available diagnostic test to determine if a cat is a carrier of B. henselae. Since carrier cats are always healthy and multiple cases of CSD within a household are rare, euthanasia of a s uspected carrier is not warranted.

Onychectomy (declawing) is also not recommended, since infection can occur without a cat scratch. As is always the case, any cut or scratch should be promptly washed with soap and water. In addition, children should be taught not to tease or annoy cats and rough play should be discouraged. A common sense approach is the best way to safeguard against CSD.
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About The Author

Anita Hampton http://www.eliminatecatodour.com

Cat-proof your home by building a play center where your cat can climb, perch, and scratch. Provide a few toys your cat can bat around, such as spring-mounted, dangling, or bouncy toys. Indoor cats with little access to grass or other vegetable matter may chew house plants. Offer them lettuce, catnip, or a kitty herb garden in exchange.

To keep your cat away from problem areas, first try child locks, barricades, or closed doors. For persistent problems or areas that cannot be barricaded, use remote punishment, taste and odor aversion, or booby traps as deterrents. Never use physical punishment — it may cause your cat to fear you and to stay away from the problem area only when you are around.

Scratching is a normal behavior that allows your cat to condition its claws as it marks its territory. It also provides an opportunity for a nice stretch.

To prevent destructive scratching, keep your cat away from tempting areas, trim its nails regularly, and provide a proper scratching post. Encourage your cat to use a scratching post by placing one near its favorite sleeping area and perhaps a second post in a prominent area.

If your cat continues to scratch in an inappropriate area, put a post in there. Food rewards will help keep your cat interested in the post and away from your furniture. If scratching persists, cover the scratched surface with plastic or short strips of double-sided tape. Another option is to use plastic coverings that fit over your cat’s nails. These are available from your veterinarian.

If you have sincerely tried to solve the problem but still encounter destructive scratching, declawing may be a final consideration. It is certainly a better alternative than banning the cat outdoors or taking it to an animal shelter. In numerous studies, declawing has been shown not to have detrimental effects on a cat’s behavior or personality.
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About The Author

Anita Hampton http://www.eliminatecatodour.com

This is for owners who would like their cat to use a scratching post instead of the stereo speakers. If you’re like me, you admire your cat for being a cat and you want him to behave as nothing other than a cat, but a well-behaved one.

Before we can train or teach our cats to do something or to stop doing something, we need to look at how cats learn. They don’t understand English, they can’t read books or attend lectures.

They learn by experience. If the experience is good, they will try to repeat it. If the experience is unpleasant, they will try to avoid it in the future.

They enjoy raking the furniture with their claws, so they continue to do it. But it’s quite a shock when they stick their nose in a candle flame, so they won’t do that again.

The key to training is to make sure that whatever you want your cat to do is exceedingly rewarding and pleasurable. Whatever you don’t want your cat to indulge in must never be rewarding or fun, in fact, it must be unpleasant.

Sometimes we unintentionally reward our cats for obnoxious behavior. A common complaint is that the cat pounces on the owner at five in the morning, meowing up a storm and generally being a pest.

What do the owners do? They get up and feed the cat, play with him or let him outside. Kitty has learned that his behavior gets him exactly what he wants.

Many owners become frustrated because they can’t catch the cat in the act of the crime, so instead they show the cat the evidence (usually a wet spot on the carpet or pieces of shredded drapery) and discipline the cat at that time.

A common practice is grabbing the cat, pointing out the wet spot, then dragging him to the litterbox and forcing him to dig in the litter. What the cat is learning is that being reached for by the owner is a bad experience and that the litterbox is a torture chamber. It is usually difficult if not impossible to catch the cat in the act because most cats have already learned that being caught is bad news.

Reprimands simply do not work. If you catch kitty in the act, he will only misbehave when you are not around. If you punish the cat later, he will not associate the reprimand with the crime. In either case, the misbehavior continues. Some cats misbehave just to get attention and the attention is enough of a reward to cause kitty to continue his ways. So what do we do?

If you want to prevent problems from occurring, or reform kitty of his bad habits, the answers are the same. Here’s a three point plan:

* First: Stop all reprimands and punishment, no matter what your cat is doing.

* Second: Set kitty up to succeed in performing those behaviors you want her to learn so she can be rewarded.

* Third: Set up kitty’s environment so that those behaviors you don’t want him to learn are not rewarding.

Let’s look at these at little more closely.

1. Stop all reprimands. Concentrate on making your relationship fun, rewarding, playful and interesting. Sometimes this change alone will solve your problem.

Cats are known to become overly active and destructive when bored. Daily play sessions and relaxing massages help calm kitty down. Cats that feel neglected will often stop using their litterbox. If you schedule regular sessions to give kitty your undivided attention and to play games with him, even litterbox problems can disappear almost overnight.

2. The most effective way to train a cat is through rewards, so the second step is setting up the cat’s environment so he can succeed.

This will give you the opportunity to reward and praise him for good behavior.

Let’s take a look at litterbox training as an example. A cat’s physical system is very regular. If you control the input, you are also in control of the output.

Kitty should be on a regular feeding schedule so he will have a corresponding regular output schedule. Adjust his feeding time so you can be present when he needs to go. About 15 minutes prior to when you know he will need to go, take him to his litterbox room. Because you and kitty are locked in the litterbox room, he doesn’t have the option of going on the carpet in the hall or on your bed. His only choice is the litterbox.

When he uses it, praise the daylights out of him! Give him a juicy chunk of salmon or another treat that is reserved for this wonderful performance. Until you’re sure that kitty is completely litterbox trained, don’t give him free access to the rest of your home when you know his bladder and bowels are full.

3. The third step is setting up the cat’s environment so that his misbehavior is not a rewarding experience. Let’s take a look at furniture scratching as an example. While making kitty’s scratching post fun, rewarding and exciting, it may also be necessary to make the furniture unattractive as a clawing item.

Instead of you telling the cat to avoid the furniture, let the furniture itself tell the cat to stay away. It’s up to you to find something your cat does not like. Each cat is different.

However, most cats don’t like to snag their claws when scratching, so you might try draping some netting or tulle over the furniture. Some cats don’t like the feel of aluminum foil or two-sided sticky tape. A mild menthol or citrus scent repels some cats. Once your cat realizes that these places are not fun to scratch or sit on, and she regularly has wonderful times at her scratching post, the problem of inappropriate scratching will disappear.

Maybe you do want to train your cat to jump through a hoop, maybe you just want him to stop climbing the drapes. Whatever the case, remember that cats learn best through the use of rewards, praise and positive reinforcement.

Set kitty up to succeed. Set yourself up to succeed with your cat. It works. And it’s a lot more fun that way for both of you.

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About The Author

Anita Hampton http://www.eliminatecatodour.com

If your cat is too smart for you, you could try getting your vet to prepare the medicine in a liquid form that the cat can’t detect. Never forget that you can never count on a cat getting hungry - most cats have several houses in the street to ’stock up on’ if the main home food dispensary starts playing up! Why only the other day, Woohoo brought home this fine cat - how could I possibly not feed him too?!

I’m against the use of plastic tubes to force the medicine down your cat’s throat. You can traumatize the little fella if you do this - he almost certainly won’t want to be your friend for days afterwards! No matter how sophisticated the tube (and some have ‘launch mechanisms’ etc), your cat will struggle, and this won’t be fun.

In an absolute emergency (for example, when you know your cat has eaten something poisonous, and there is no time to call the vet) there is one guaranteed technique that could save your cat’s life. I repeat, NEVER use this technique except in dire emergencies. Pick your cat up by the scruff of the neck and angle the cat’s head backwards making his mouth face upwards. This is how mummy cats pick up kittens, and they have a reflex to temporary immobility in this position. You can then drop the medication straight down the cat’s throat. The cat’s usual reaction will be to swallow, although watch out for the cat breathing in - you don’t want to pour it down his airways! Once swallowed, you can gently let the cat down. Remember to give her lots of strokes and treats after this kind of thing, because it is kind of traumatic for the cat (and the owner!).

If you have enjoyed this article, why not sign up for http://www.petmillions.com ? You can support your favorite cat charity, and get a chance to win a million! You can even vote for Woohoo while you are there! vote for Woohoo! . Just enter his pet id (3151) and away you go! Ta! Jules.

About The Author

Mr. Jules Henderson is the owner of several animals including Woohoo, a tabby cat with a real hatred of medicine! Woohoo is entered in the http://www.petmillions.com contest - please vote for him!

Cat dandruff…..Now what should a caring pet owner do?

“Pet dandruff looks like a really bad case of people dandruff - you can easily see it with most animals,” says Nancy Scanlan, D.V.M., a veterinarian in private practice in California.

While occasionally dog dandruff and cat dandruff can indicate a serious health problem, like allergies, parasites, or skin infections, more often it occurs when skin cells naturally proliferate — They form, die and then flake off — at an accelerated rate.

Scott Weldy, D.V.M. says, “Since pet dandruff is a sign of flaky skin, giving your pet regular baths will help wash the flakes away before they accumulate. Bathing your pet once a month in winter and twice a month in summer may clear up the problem for good.”

* To bathe your pet, use warm water, Not hot water.

* Use a mild shampoo and massage it well into your pet’s skin.

* Then rinse thoroughly and dry your pet well.

* Don’t use medicated shampoos made for humans because they can be harmful for pets.

* Check the label carefully! Products that may be safe for dogs, may not necessarily be safe for cats.

* To prevent making dandruff worse, avoid using shampoos that include an insecticide.

* Most flea shampoos are very drying to the skin, thus creating more dandruff problems.

Regular brushing and grooming your pet will help distribute natural oils evenly over dry skin, which will help keep dandruff down.

Choose a brush that’s not too harsh. You can tell by rubbing the brush against the back of your hand to see if it will hurt. Something you would use on your own head will be excellent for your pet.

“If you’ve tried shampoos, regular brushing and new foods and it still looks like winter on your pet’s coat, you’re probably going to need professional help,” says Jan A. Hall, D.V.M.

“While dandruff is usually nothing more than flaky skin, in some cases it can indicate serious problems. Warning signs to watch for, besides the flakes, include scabs, crusting or itching.”

“Problems with the skin can be an indication of internal disease. After a month or so, if there is no improvement, you should take your pet to the vet.”

According to Mollyann Holland, D.V.M., “Sometimes we’ll see dandruff when animals aren’t getting enough fat in their diets. Giving your pet fish oil supplements will help improve the metabolism of fats in skin tissue. Some generic and supermarket brand foods do not provide the full range of vitamins and minerals your pet needs to maintain a healthy skin. Many pets have been taken off generic foods and put on a high quality food and the cases of dandruff have disappeared.”

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About The Author

Anita Hampton http://www.eliminatecatodour.com

Needless to say, this can become a very bothersome (and embarrassing!) habit. Wool sucking cats seem to prefer a woven material such as a sweater instead of raw wool. In some cats, the sucking begins with wool, but then progresses to other available materials such as cotton or even plastic. The behavior most often begins at puberty and, if left untreated, can lead to serious digestive illness and destruction of household items.

Why Do Cats Wool Suck?

The majority of cats that display this behavior are Siamese and this fact gives a strong indication that it can be inherited. It is not, however, related to any nutritional deficiencies, external stresses or to the sex or reproductive stage of the animal. One hypothesis is that this may be a behavior that is “left over” from the prolonged six-month suckling period that is common in feral (stray or wild) cats. Since domestic kittens are usually weaned at six weeks, this may result in suckling deprivation that is expressed by the sucking of man-made objects such as wool. Unfortunately, this idea has not been tested experimentally.

It has also been thought that cats may wool suck because the odor of lanolin in wool is similar to the odor of the fur around the nipples of the kitten’s mother.

What to do With a Wool Sucking Cat

The treatments available to the owner of a wool sucking cat include behavior modification, drug therapy, and, in extreme cases, euthanasia.

Obviously, every attempt to control this behavior should be made in order to avoid having to put the animal down. This takes patience and perseverance on the part of you the cat owner.

Behavior Modification

The following are a few steps that you could take to help control a cat’s wool sucking behavior: The first step is to remove any objects that the cat may suck or chew on.

This may mean confining the cat to one room of the house. In order to encourage the cat’s natural meat eating instinct, a supply of rawhide or bones could be made available to the cat (no chicken bones!).

The next step in involves the use of some punishment: One method is to thump the cat on the nose and say, “No” when it begins to suck.

(Editors Note: The above statement is exclusively the viewpoint of the article writer and not of the staff of this blog. We do not condone nor endorse any form of physical punishment or aggressive behavior towards any animal.)

Another is to spy on the cat and use the trusty water pistol any time a cat is found sucking. In order for this kind of discipline to work, the punishment must be delivered immediately after every incorrect behavior occurs. For this reason, punishment often does not work because you cannot always punish the cat the moment it begins to suck and every time it sucks. The cat will take advantage of this and often turns the situation into a game. It will begin to sneak and lurk around to try and avoid getting caught. For these crafty cats, the use of slightly sprung mousetraps hidden in clothing may be effective. This allows punishment to be delivered even if you are not around.

Another technique that can be used involves a bottle of your favorite perfume and a bottle of Tabasco sauce. This method relies upon the association of a certain odor with a bad experience to deter the cat. By applying the perfume and hot sauce to an item of clothing, the cat that sucks on the clothing will associate the smell of the perfume with the unpleasant taste of the hot sauce.

Chemicals that can be administered

If punishment and/or the hot sauce do not work, there are various substances that you can give to your cat.

Since one possible explanation for wool sucking is a craving for lanolin, it can be fed to the cat. Although no nutritional deficiencies have been found in wool sucking cats, it has been found that feeding the cat a diet high in fiber can eliminate the behavior in some cases.

It has also been found that administering 0.5 g per day of thyroid hormone also controls some cases of wool sucking. For cats where none of the above treatments work, anti-anxiety drugs (e.g. amitriptyline HCL) may help however there are side effects to these drugs.

Prevention

Unfortunately, since it is not known exactly why cats wool suck, there are not many steps that you can take to prevent this behavior from occurring. However, here are a couple of points to keep in mind:

Siamese cat breeders should wait until kittens are 12 weeks old to wean.

This ensures an adequate suckling period. A cat displaying wool-sucking behavior should not be used for breeding because there is the possibility that the kittens could inherit the behavior.

Conclusions

Wool sucking is a peculiar and destructive behavior that is often hard to control. However, there are many ways in which this behavior can be controlled or eliminated, and with the development of new drugs, there may be even more options in the future. A lot of time and patience are required to successfully control wool sucking but these are rewarded by a normal cat, and clothing without holes!

http://www.eliminatecatodour.com

About The Author

Anita Hampton http://www.eliminatecatodour.com

Occasionally a runny eye is caused by a disorder of the normal anatomy.

Tear glands continually produce secretions which lubricate the surface of the eyeball and flush particulate material into the tear ducts which then drain into the nose. If there’s a blockage of the ducts, the tears have no choice but to spill over and run down the face. Blockage can occur if there has been previous damage to the ducts or if the cat has an abnormal anatomy.

Persian cats frequently have tear staining, partly because their tear ducts are kinked and partly because their eyeball shape prevents effective drainage. Chronic tear overspill causes a brown staining on the fur which is most noticeable in pale colored cats.

Runny eyes are also a result of tear overproduction if there is an irritation to the sensitive eyeball. The cause may be easily identified as in some longhaired cats where a clump of hair rubs the surface. Some can be much more difficult to detect; solitary aberrant hairs may grow inside the eyelid and can only be discovered by carrying out an extremely thorough examination under general anaesthetic.

The cornea is the clear outer covering of the eyeball and is a very sensitive structure. Flu infections can sometimes extend beyond the membranes and also affect the corneas. In very young kittens, the damage can be so severe that the cornea is extensively scarred and the cat grows up visually impaired or even blind.

Most corneal disease is encountered as a result of a bit of a punch up with another cat and a claw being poked in the eye. The puncture wound may be very obvious, particularly if a bit of claw is left behind in the eyeball.

In other cases there may be no apparent defects.

Mild corneal damage will heal well if the cat is supported with antibiotics but more severe damage may require surgery. Stitching the eyelids together often helps with the healing.

The iris is the structure which gives the eye its color, ranging from pink in albinos, to blue in Siamese, through all shades of yellows, coppers and greens. The iris is a muscular structure which contracts and expands in order to vary the amount of light which passes through to the back of the eye.

It has very delicate blood vessels and if a claw has managed to pierce through the cornea to the iris, the bleeding can be very dramatic.

Some of the more unpleasant feline infections, Feline Infectious Peritonitis (FIP) virus, Feline Leukemia Virus (FeLV), Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) and toxoplasmosis can all cause disease in the iris.

The first sign an owner may notice is a change in color of the eye.

Close examination reveals changes in the shape of the iris and the presence of debris in the fluid behind the cornea. It is very difficult to distinguish which one of these infections has caused the abnormality, so further investigation is always necessary.

If there is a diseased iris, also have to consider the possibility of a tumor. T he two most commonly encountered are lymphosarcoma, a solid form of leukemia, and melanoma, a cancer of the pigment producing cells.

If an iris has been affected by a treatable condition, it may be left with permanent color change and a distorted shape because of adhesions or scar tissue produced during the healing response. Not all areas of new pigment are associated with disease. Some cats, particularly orange colored individuals, can develop little dark patches of pigment in the iris as they age, but any change in eye color should always be checked by your vet.

The retina is a fine membranous structure which lines the back of the eyeball.

Light passes through the pupil and the lens and lands on the retina.

There it stimulates nerve endings which cause electrical signals to be sent to the brain where the information is interpreted as vision.

Any abnormality of the color, the reflectivity or the blood vessels indicates disease of the retina. One of the most serious conditions is a generalized degeneration of the retina. The retina appears to be very bright.

Blood vessels become much finer and in advanced cases are barely visible.

The retina can detach from the underlying tissue if there is a leakage or overproduction of fluid between the layers, or if there is bleeding.

High blood pressure resulting from kidney failure or an overactive thyroid gland can cause this eye problem.

Retinal detachments tend to be quite dramatic in onset and owners report that the cat appears to have gone blind overnight. The pupils are massively dilated and instead of a smooth concave surface there are billowing folds of retina. There is virtually no hope of restoration of eyesight in these cases.

The thought of a blind cat is quite horrifying to most owners but a combination of the cat not knowing it’s supposed to worry about its lack of vision and its other senses being so well developed means they actually cope remarkably well. If the environment is kept as constant as possible, most individuals adapt very well to their surroundings.

Many problems in cats are self -limiting and given one or two days most will rectify themselves. Eye conditions should be treated with a little more respect and a little more urgency even if the cat appears to be totally indifferent to its problem. A mild disorder can result in quite dramatic and devastating changes to the eye if left untreated so don’t delay and seek expert advice as soon as possible.

http://www.eliminatecatodour.com

About The Author

Anita Hampton http://www.eliminatecatodour.com

Giving them away from a cardboard box in your supermarket’s parking lot is not considered finding a good home! You need to make sure that the adopters are willing to make the commitment to care for a cat for the next twenty years.

Did you ever wonder what happened to them after they were taken away?

To be honest, not everyone who adopts one of your sweet little kittens or puppies is being totally honest with you when they say the animal will have a good home.

Giving away any animal. whether it be an adult or a baby, without screening the potential adopter and without charging some sort of good faith fee can put your animal in dangers that you never would have considered.

There are people who make their living by go around picking up these “Free To a Good Home” animals and sell them to labs for medical research. You don’t want to know what happens to them there. They will even bring kids with them so you believe they are a happy family looking for a little kitten

Free animals are also taken for sacrifice, they are used for bait to train attack dogs, they are even used for food for snakes. By just giving them away, you are basically saying that these animals have no value at all.

By putting a set price on them you are making it less desirable for these people as you are eating up their profit.

If you don’t feel right about asking a price for a kitten, you can request that a donation be made to your favorite charity or local animal shelter.

You’ve cared enough about this animal to find it a good home, that entitles you to a donation, or to asking for one for your chosen charity.

How To Find Potential Good Homes For Your Kittens

* Place posters in your local veterinarian’s office, or humane society or animal shelter if they will allow it….always ask first.

* Be careful about putting an ad in the paper. At the very least - do not put a “free kittens or puppies to good homes” ad in the paper.

Here are some of the people that might answer those ads:

Third-class dealers who sell the cats or puppies for about 30 dollars a piece to labs that perform medical experiments on them.

Although animal labs typically get their “subjects” from breeders (and some breeders make a lot of money selling kittens and puppies and other animals to labs), some protocols also call for an “unknown” group of animals, to be used as a control group in the experiment.

You may also get a visit from a fighting dog trainer. Sadly, some dog owners train their dogs to be killers by using live animals as targets.

Then, there are the just plain mean people who abound. Of course, none of these types of “adopters” will identify the true nature of their interest.

* Talk to trusted family members and close trusted friends who are interested in adopting the kittens or puppies. Preferably you want them to live with someone whom you would trust with your own pet, and who has had pets before. Granted, this isn’t always possible.

Once You Get A Contact

Screen adopters carefully! Grill them all you want. See if they’ve had pets before. Find out why they want a new pet. Ask for identification and get an address. If at all possible, try to visit their home to observe the condition, particularly of other animals in the house.

You can draw up a small contract - it is legally binding, in fact (although enforcing it may be a problem.) You can call a shelter, rescue group, or breeder organization for guidelines. In writing, the adopter should commit to the following:

They will spay or neuter the kitten

They will give the kitten proper veterinary care - yearly exams, vaccinations, and visits to examine suspected health problems

The adopter will make the pet a member of the family. That means a companion FOR LIFE.

“Red flags” to watch for. These certainly aren’t automatic disqualifications, but they do merit additional investigation.

Many young kids in the house Frequent traveling or business trips

A small apartment that already has other animals

College students living on campus

Military families

Sadly, the latter two categories contribute heavily to the feral cat colonies that abound college campuses and military bases, because of their transient nature.

Don’t be shy about requesting a follow up visit or three.

Screen people very carefully over the phone and check all references before allowing them to come to your home to see the animal. The best reference is one from a veterinarian. It’s very easy for a person to list their friends, who may not be honest, as references. A veterinary reference is the best way to check the person you are dealing with.

Don’t hesitate to say “no” to someone who doesn’t “feel right,” even after they have visited the pet. If no is difficult to say, tell them that other interested people are coming later, and you’ll call them.

You should ideally leave time to visit the home of the new owner before giving up your pet; this allows you to see the pet’s new surroundings and to see if the person in fact resides at the address given.

http://www.eliminatecatodour.com

About The Author

Anita Hampton http://www.eliminatecatodour.com

My cat, Oscar, isn’t the brightest of cats, so I didn’t want to fool around with one of those “Johnny-come-lately” imitations. Plus, they are all so over-priced! Can you believe one is about $90?

Anyway, my experience in training Oscar paralleled instructions in the kit. Oscar always needed more love with everything because he’s little slow. I figure that if Oscar can get it, any cat can.

The Kitty Whiz package included:

(A) Bag of Herbs.
(B) Clear Plastic Form.
(C) Cartoon Style Instruction Booklet.
(D) Diploma for when Oscar graduated.

There was warning to wait if Oscar just had a litter. But, Oscar didn’t have to worry about pregnancy. Also Oscar was to be using a litter box already, which he did.

The warning went on for female cats. If your was is in heat, pregnant, or recently had kittens, you were to wait 6 - 8 weeks.

The Kitty whiz “transfer” was to take about 2 weeks. I lost track of time, but it was about that for Oscar to get into the groove. Of course, I changed the litter daily and kept everything clean as usual.

There was a recommendation to use a padded toilet seat cover for off-balance cats and Oscar qualified because he is awfully clumsy.

Kitty Whiz divided their training into stages. Everything I personally did was covered in the instructions.

STAGE 1

I took Oscar into the spare bathroom where nobody would bother him. Remember to start this training in the evening because your cat will need to stay in the restroom overnight so they will do their first poops and pees.

While Oscar was meowing around, I placed the large clear plastic form and the large white form together- with the clear form on top.

I chose to train Oscar with the toilet seat down because I thought it was safer and it is usually down anyway. The padded lid stayed up.

I then took the old litter box out to the shed so Oscar couldn’t find it and he would be focused on his new toilet facility. Good riddance to that smelly thing that I could never figure out where to put anyway.

Per instructions, I filled the bowl part of the form with regular litter so it looked vaguely similar to Oscar’s regular litter box.

Since Oscar had been known to poop and pee in everything resembling nature, I covered my houseplant soil with aluminum foil where possible and rocks where possible.

In the restroom where Oscar was training, I put his bowls with his favorite food and fresh water.

I opened the herb package and took a whiff. It did nothing for me but Oscar loved it. He followed the package as I led him up onto the toilet seat.

I sprinkled a little on the litter and Oscar sniffed around. This was to help Oscar take note of where his kitty litter was now located.

It was a little heartbreaking, but I closed Oscar in his restroom for the night. He needed to poop in peace, and he doesn’t like for anyone to interrupt his “work.” Instructions mentioned that cats are that way.

In the morning I checked on Oscar and he was perfectly content and maybe a little too proud. The litter was saturated with pee and there was a healthy mound of poop.

There are instructions for cat owners who have not been as successful as I was with Oscar. But, neither my parents nor my children have ever had problems.

I read over the steps to take if one is unsuccessful. They boil down to doing things over, keeping things real clean and encouraging one’s cat with love and finesse. Oscar may not have been blessed with smarts, but he was blessed with a loving family. I’m sure your cat also has a loving home environment.

STAGE 2

I was glad to move on to the next stage because Oscar was really going through the litter and leaving me with mounds of love each day. I think he was laughing at me.

After four days, Oscar was accustomed to using his new litter box on top of the toilet. So, I saw the principle involved there. I gradually removed parts of the plastic form until nothing was left. In about two weeks, Oscar was going into the restroom all by himself and using the toilet like a regular human.

This is my own personal touch to the toilet system. I secured the toilet seat lid so it was always in the up position. I also had the door fixed so it was always open enough for Oscar to walk through. I did these two things to make sure Oscar was never prevented from doing his “work.”

Nowadays, it is quite humorous to see Oscar get up from his favorite TV program and wander off to use the restroom. My only responsibilities lately are to flush the toilet. Maybe Kitty Whiz will someday invent a way to train Oscar to flush the toilet.

I think Oscar was proud to officially join the human race as a toilet user. He always knew he was human, but it was good to have official recognition in the form of a degree. We gave him a graduation party and presented him with his Kitty Whiz Degree. He wore a blue ribbon and we framed his degree an hung it in his “office,” right above the toilet.

I was so moved, I sent some pictures to Bluejayz Pet Supplies, from whom I had purchased Oscar’s Kitty Whiz Kit. Maybe I’ll see Oscar’s picture on their web site.

Bluejayz encouraged me to email any suggestions, pictures, and success stories about Oscar and other cats to success@bluejayz.com

I need to add the policy regarding images and testimonials as a courtesy to Bluejayz.

All pictures stories and suggestions sent to BlueJayz Pet Supplies become the exclusive property of BlueJayz Pet Supplies and can be utilized in any way, manner, shape and form without consideration or compensation of any kind to submitter.

Here is my personal testimony about Kitty Whiz:

I remember Kitty Whiz from the 1970s. It was around a long time before other cat toilet training systems. It is proven and trusted in my family. And I know other families that used it with success and I recommend it to first-timers. I’ve seen many imitations on the market lately and they are usually way over priced. I saw one for about $90 dollars. All I can say is, “Get real!”

I bought Oscar’s Kitty Whiz online through BlueJayz Pet Supplies and I recommend it for good prices and fast shipping.www.bluejayz.com

About The Author

Brandy Connery

I became an early fan of Kitty Whiz in the 1970s after seeing it demonstrated on TV.

My family also uses Kitty Whiz to train their cats and I recommend it over high-priced “Me Too” imitations that have recently flooded the market.

I bought my cat’s Kitty Whiz online through BlueJayz Pet Supplies and I recommend that you check it out www.bluejayz.com

The American Short Hair coat can come in many colors in patterns. In fact, almost 80 different patterns of colors are recognized in this breed. It is an all weather coat that is dense but won t mat. It should be brushed regularly to remove the dead hairs if the cat will not groom itself.

There are also as many different personality characteristics in Domestic Short Hairs from the stereotypical aloofness to the surprisingly friendly and social. This is a fairly healthy breed (part of its working cat parentage), so it is a relatively low maintenance breed, requiring nothing more than routine health care. However, some Domestic Short Hairs are prone to overeating, so it is important to give them plenty of opportunity to exercise and play. Those that cannot (or will not) engage in exercise will need to have its diet monitored closely to avoid potential problems with obesity.

There is a website that has great information on Domestic Short Hair and most other breeds of cats. It has details that pertain to a cat breeds health, grooming, living conditions, best food choices and more, the website is called: Dog And Cat Facts, and can be found at this url:

http://www.dogandcatfacts.com

By Robert W. Benjamin

Copyright © 2006

You may publish this article in your ezine, newsletter on your web site as long as it is reprinted in its entirety and without modification except for formatting needs or grammar corrections.

About The Author

Robert W. Benjamin has been in the software business on the internet for over 5 years, and has been producing low-cost software for the past 25 years. He first released products on the AMIGA and C64 computer systems in the late 1970’s-80’s.

RB59.COM Software
http://www.rb59.com/software

YES and NO

Yes, hungry, it can be, but apart from this there can many other reasons, why it is ‘meowing’. The reason may be anything it may be because it is just bored, or can be because it has suffering from some kind of discomfort or has some medical problem.

What should you do it she keeps meowing? Offer her milk…

No! You should not offer her any food when it is incessantly meowing, as it will think that this as a kind of reward and would keep meowing… This will increase its bad behavior and would affect the relationship between you and the cat.

Offer it food, when it stops meowing, this will be registered in its mind, that if it does not meow unnecessarily, it will be rewarded. You will need to get your cat to learn when it is appropriate to meow, when they really need something. You need to see that all the cat needs is always available to it, as far as possible. This would mean your cat will do less meowing.

Cats are usually lazy and would not exercise by themselves. They love to cat nap all day long. You need to set up a playtime and a play area. Keep Strings, ball, catnip items, or simple home made items that your cat will love. See that the items kept are without any sharp edges which might hurt your pet. This will help it get into a good habit of keeping itself occupied while you are busy with something else.

You should spend sometime in a day and preferable keep it same time everyday. A good time would be when you return home from work and you want to relax. It is proved that playing with or just stroking cats helps one relax and keeps blood pressure under control.

Purring is another characteristic of a cat. Purring signifies that the cat is content. Follow this with caution as purring does not always signify that the cat is happy. Cats also purrs if they are ill, sick or dying. Pay close attention to your cat, when it is purring and check for any physical signals which might suggest that it is not feeling well.

If it stops purring, that too signifies that it has some discomfort maybe it may be sick with a virus or something could be making her feel sick. These are signals to suggest you that seek the services of a veterinarian and have your cat examined. Non-purring may also happen when cats get older or maybe the purring is so soft that you are unable to hear them it.

As in humans, emotions play a very important part of a behavior in your cat. Fears, grief, compassion, jealously affect the behavior of your feline friends too.

* As fear is intimating to us so is it for them, it may have a fear of getting hurt or may be afraid of another animal.

* Cat would exhibit grief, when something tragic happens to it like loosing its owner, the same way as we do when we loose our near or dear ones.

* Cats have compassion for other cats.

* Your meowing and purring pet also turns green with jealousy if it has to share its owner, home, toys or food.

It is these emotions, you need to consider, when you are training your cat. It would be disturbed and might resort to excessive meowing and refuse to listen to its master. When they show the signs of being emotional, you need to find what is affecting their behavior.

Are they hurt or are they ill or is it just their bad behavior.

Cats, being emotional, need your attention all the time. You need to observe, if they are satisfied with the location, they are comfortable with other pets or other members of the family and you should always be aware of their actions.

Training a pet is tricky. It is Time and Patience which will help you through. They are to be treated like our children, teach them good behavior and ignore their bad attitude.

Reward your cat for being good. You need to give time to your cat to teach them how to play with toys and other items which you have kept for their playing. Always feed you cat with healthy food; these will ensure good medical condition and happy-content behavior.

Get toys which they would practically like to play with. Do not go in for toys which you would like them to play with.

Love them, Hug them and be kind to them, and you would be able to share the most beautiful relationship.

About The Author

Son Ngo is the owner of http://www.vkhowto.com. The site dedicated to how to get more out of life. For complete and free guide to cat training, please visit http://www.vkhowto.com/a_guide_to_cat_training.

Failure to use the litter box or house soiling is undoubtedly the most common cat behaviour problem. Cats may stop using their litter box/tray or even have trouble learning to use it in the first place. One thing to remember is that you should never punish the cat by ‘rubbing it’s nose in it’. This method of correction has never worked and will only serve to make the cat even more traumatised, thus adding to the problem.

The three main reasons for failing to use the litter box/tray are: -

1. Medical Problems such as:

· Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease (FLUTD)
· Bacterial Infections
· Tumours
· Kidney Disease
· Liver Disease

Treatment

· Always take the cat to a reputable vet in the first instance in order to rule out the possibility of any medical problems.
· If there is more than one cat in the household, all will need to be examined.

Once all medical problems have been ruled out, you can consider the following: -

2. Problems with the litter box/tray itself:

· Not emptied often enough
· Not clean
· Too many cats using the same box
· Overuse of deodorizers
· Changing the type or brand of the litter
· Changing the location
· Too near to ‘frightening’ domestic appliances e.g. the washing machine

Treatment

· Change the litter at least once every 3 days or as often as daily for some cats
· Ensure deposits are removed on a daily basis
· Clean the box with an odourless disinfectant – there are many brands available designed especially for litter boxes
· If there is more than one cat in the household, make sure, where possible, each has it’s own litter box
· Introduce any new brand/type of litter a little at a time, mixing it with the old brand/type. Do this until eventually you are using only the new brand. If this doesn’t work, you may have to consider returning to the old brand/type.
· If the box has been moved put it back to where it was previously. If this is not possible, put the box on the spot that the cat is choosing to use and then move it towards the desired new location at a rate of one foot per day
· Move the box away from the ‘frightening’ noise or move the appliance that’s causing the problem
· Consider a covered litter box/tray. This gives the cat more privacy, which many prefer and it also helps with odour control and prevents litter being kicked out of the box.

3. Stress/Trauma:

· New cats introduced to the household
· Visitors, especially large gatherings e.g. a party
· Workmen carrying out work in the household
· Moving house
· A change in routine e.g. new working hours
· Problems with other cats in the neighbourhood
· A new baby

Treatment

· Try to give each cat it’s ‘own space’ within the household and introduce them gradually spending a little more time together each day. The unfortunate fact of the matter is that if the soiling continues to be persistent, then it may be advisable not to keep the second cat
· Remove the cat to another area of the house along with it’s bed, litter box, food and water when visitors are present
· The above point can be used when workmen are in the house as well but if it is likely to be for more than a couple of days or very noisy then you should consider placing the cat in a cattery until the work is finished
· Tranquillisers prescribed by your vet may be effective or consider products like Feliway also available from your vet as a spray or in a diffuser
· A new baby sometimes means the cat can become jealous. Give your cat plenty of attention to reassure it that you still love him/her

Above all, remember that punishing the cat using pain or fear will completely destroy any relationship you may have with him/her. At the very least, discipline in this way is likely to escalate the problem and will very likely result in the cat leaving the household altogether to escape the ‘abusive human behaviour’.

About The Author

Paul Bicknell recommends Solutions To Cat Behaviour Problems. See more at http://www.cat-answers.com.

Just about all kittens are infected with some kind of parasitic worm at the time of birth, which were transmitted while the kitten was developing inside the mother’s womb. Alternatively worm eggs can be transmitted via the mother’s milk during the nursing stage. Unless the mother is medically confirmed to be worm-free and lives in an immaculate indoor environment, there is a high probability the her kittens will have worms. With that being said, it is important to understand the following conditions as well as the deworming process involved.

All stray kittens will have worms. Don’t assume otherwise. Any stray kitten recovered must be taken to a veterinarian as soon as possible for deworming and other treatments. If your cat is a hunter and catches and consumes small animals such as birds or mice, it is highly likely that your cat will have worms from ingesting worm larvae that commonly exist in these animals.

Indoor cats can also be infected with worms. Chronic heaving and retching behavior is suggestive of a possible worm infestation in your cat. If a cat vomits and the worms are visible, this of course is a clear proof that the cat needs to be dewormed immediately. The most common type or worm to infect cats are Roundworms that look like spaghetti and Tapeworms that are flat and with box shaped sections.

Veterinarian worm testing may not always show a positive result for worms even if they exist. The common fecal test will only show a positive indication of worms if they are active and migrating within the cat. Quite often, worms can exist dormant within the cat’s body for a long time and only manifest themselves in a fecal exam after some sort of stress event like pregnancy or surgery.

Sudden changes in appetite or diarrhea are possible signs of worm infection. Fur that loses its sheen or the developing of a protruding belly are other signs. Cats that are observed eating feces must definitely be put through a deworming process.

Determining the exact type of worm infecting a cat will be critical to successful treatment because medication is specific to the type of worm. For example medication to rid a cat of round worms will not work for tape worms or other types of worms. Generally fecal testing is the best method for determining the type of worm infecting cat.

Worm medications can be in the form of a liquid or a pill and when administering medication to a cat it is vitally important to confirm that the cat actually ingests it. Concealing the medication in cat food or a treat is a simple way to accomplish this. It is also important to understand that it typically takes several deworming treatments to completely rid a cat of worms. This is due to the fact the worms in their various developmental stages will vary in their susceptibility to the medication.

In conclusion, you should subject your cat to a deworming process as warranted by conditions mention earlier. Regular veterinary fecal tests and closely monitoring your cat for symptomatic and behavioral signs of worm infection is the key for determining when and how often your cat should be dewormed.

About The Author

Ariel Keis is the webmaster of http://www.PawHouseOnline.com The Paw House - a 501(c3) charity dedicated to the rescue and rehabilitation of abandoned and abused animals and restoring them to their rightful place a loving human companions.

Scratching comes naturally to your cat as a way to exercise, mark territory, and sharpen her claws. She only picks the couch because it’s perfect for her; it’s tall enough to give her a good stretch, sturdy enough to get a vigorous workout, and covered in claw-catching fabric.

In other words, the couch takes the abuse that should be given to furniture that the cat owns.

Plunking a scratching post in the middle of the room isn’t enough to take the heat off the couch, however. The cat needs to know that she owns the scratching post and that she pleases you when she uses it. It also needs to be acceptable to her as a scratching surface.

As far as your cat is concerned, any scratching post should let her stretch to reach the top and take her most vigorous abuse without moving. She likes them tall and sturdy!

Covering and placement of the scratching post are important, too. Carpet is OK, but sisal rope is better and she’s a sociable animal so put it in a place where the whole family congregates and she can maneuver all around it.

Cats are very adept at learning through imitation. The easiest way to teach your cat to use her scratching post is to use it yourself. Whenever you catch her investigating her post, scratch it a few times with your own claws. She’ll get the idea very quickly.

If your cat doesn’t pay any attention to the scratching post, you can always attract her with a little catnip. Get a cardboard scratching post and set it up next to the permanent post. Cardboard posts are infused with catnip, so it will draw her attention. Also rub some catnip on the sisal rope. It’ll drive her nuts!

As aloof as they may sometimes seem, the greatest joy in your cat’s life is pleasing you. Praise her when she uses the scratching post. Give her a simple, sharp “No!” when she scratches the furniture. As she craves attention and praise, she will use her scratching post just to show off!

The very instant your cat shows any interest in using her scratching post, block her access to the old scratching areas. Acrylic shields work perfectly, but anything your cat can’t scratch will do. With her access blocked, she’ll go looking for another favorite spot and her own scratching post will be the logical choice. Within a few days, she’ll forget about her old scratching spots altogether.

Your cat only wants to abuse nice furniture. The key is, make sure it’s her nice furniture and not yours.

About The Author

Brock Lorber provides cat and dog health advice. You can find more advice and great pet products at:

http://www.myotherkids.com
http://www.squidoo.com/cat_health_advice/
http://www.squidoo.com/dog_health_advice/

Before you begin bathing your cat, you will need to gather a few supplies. At the minimum, you will need two absorbent terry cloth towels, a pet safe shampoo, a pet safe conditioner, a sponge, and a sprayer attachment for your sink or tub. If you don’t have a sprayer attachment, you should have a pitcher or large cup that you can use to scoop clean water over your cat’s body. Ideally, you should also have a non-skid mat to help your cat feel more secure.

If you decide to bathe your cat in the tub, you may have a harder time holding on to him if he becomes frightened. However, it is usually easier to keep him contained if he escapes in a bathroom than in the kitchen.

Place your non-skid mat in the bottom of the sink or tub. Add two to three inches of warm water and gently place your cat in the tub. Talk to him quietly and reassure him. He will most likely settle down within a few seconds. Once he is calm, begin to wet him down. If the sprayer attachment scares him too badly, you may have to pour water over him using your pitcher or cup, instead. Do not pour water on his head. You will clean his face later.

Once your cat is wet enough to shampoo, apply the shampoo with your hand, massaging your cat’s fur and talking kindly and calmly to him while you do. Rinsing the shampoo is probably the most difficult part of the bath. It’s important you do it thoroughly even if your cat objects, because the residue from the shampoo will irritate his skin.

Now, work a palm sized dollop of conditioner into your cat’s coat and then rinse it out. This step is actually optional if the cat has short hair. However, conditioner will not hurt a short haired cat, so, if he is not too upset, you may still want to use it.

Once your cat’s body is clean, dampen your sponge and use it to carefully wipe down his face. Pay close attention to the area under his eyes.

The drying stage is the easiest. Wrap your cat in a towel and rub him down. Change towels when the first one is wet. Get your cat as dry as possible. If you have a long-cat, some people suggest a hair dryer, but most cats are afraid of the sound. Use your judgment. If you do use a dryer be careful that it doesn’t get too hot for his skin. Tell your kitty he smells wonderful and is going to look so beautiful now that he’s clean.

About The Author

Copyright 2007 Ron King. This article may be reprinted if the resource box is left intact and the links live.

For more info, see Cat tips at: http://www.new-cat.com or Cat health at: http://www.new-cat.com/Cat_Health.php. Ron King is a webdeveloper; visit his website on Authoring Articles at http://www.ronxking.com.

Cats do not possess the ability to separate meat from fur bones or feathers before eating like we do so they have to eat the digestible parts along with the indigestible parts. When the cat has finished digesting what he can the rest has to be removed from the system. To try and pass this through the digestive tract could cause obstruction and severe illness so this is where grass eating comes in.

The habit of eating grass triggers the natural process of regurgitation of indigestible foods including its own fur balls which would otherwise obstruct the system. This can appear to us humans as if the cat is being violently ill but this is not the case and in fact is very beneficial to the cat.

What about other plants and vegetables?

Cats cannot produce the enzymes needed to break down plant matter. Even when pureed or powdered, vegetables simply pass through the digestive tract without leaving any of their nutritional content. This alone is not harmful to your cat, but when undigested plant matter mixes with highly digestible food such as meat, indigestion and other complications may occur. Grass is an exception however; some cats compulsively eat grass when you leave them outdoors. This will cause them to regurgitate the indigestible matter, including raw vegetables.

If your cat is unable to get access to grass he may attempt to eat your house plants instead. This could be dangerous because some house plants and flowers are toxic to cats, so if you have a house cat like a Ragdoll cat for example you should provide a regular supply of potted grass to prevent him looking elsewhere. And most importantly do not punish your cat for regurgitating on to you carpet because he will not know why you are punishing him. Regurgitation is an involuntary action of your cat’s stomach so he could not stop it happening even if he tried. Cleaning up after the occasional regurgitation should be an accepted part of being a loving cat owner as they are only doing what comes naturally.

About The Author

Drew Pilton is the writer of ‘The Complete Ragdoll Cat Keepers Handbook, to find out more visit: http://www.ragdoll-cat-care.com

Cats who are outside a lot during the summer, especially those with light coloured fur are particularly at risk from the effects of the sun and the heat. So before we let our pets outside on a summer’s day we must make sure we provide adequate care for them, just as we would for our children and ourselves.

Areas particularly at risk on your pets are their ears. They often have a much lighter covering of fur and this makes them much more likely to burn in the sun. Add this to the fact that cats will often spend hours laying in the sun and the risks of skin cancer rise dramatically. Often in Mediterranean countries you will often see a lot of cats with both their ears missing. This is because that the region receives a lot of hot sunny weather and skin cancer on cats has become so common that owners will often ask the vet to remove the cats ears to reduce the risk of them catching skin cancer. Another method used is to have the ears tattooed all over in black; this helps to reflect the sun and provides protection.

Of course there are other simpler methods to protect your pet from the effects of the sun. Simply remember when you let your pet out on a hot summers day, make sure you rub a high factor sun cream onto the ears and areas which are not as covered with a thick layer of fur. Some breeds have a very thin covering of fur all over, and it might be safer to keep these breeds inside on very hot sunny days.

Also make sure that you provide plenty of fresh water for your pet which is readily available all through the day. Perhaps have several bowls of water dotted about the garden in a cool spot. Of course making sure that there are plenty of shady places that your pet can keep cool is essential. The affects of heat stroke can come on very fast and if not treated promptly can be fatal. If you suspect that your pet is suffering from heat stroke i.e. is panty very heavily and seems to be wobbly on their legs and disorientated. Cool them down immediately in a bath of cool water and then take them immediately to a vet.

All of the above are quite simple and affective steps, which will protect your pet during the summer months. A little time and thought could save both you and your pet any suffering and will ensure that summertime is enjoyed by every member of your family. More helpful tips for looking after our cat can be found at http://www.our-happy-cat.com

About The Author

Copyright 2007 Kate Tilmouth.

Kate and her partner co-write http://www.our-happy-cat.com a site full of further cat care and cat health topics. As well as being a feline friendly community site for happy cat and a happy owner.

The claws of a feline serve many purposes, most of which are overlooked y owners who just want to protect their belongings. Claws are not just a device for scratching. They are a multi-purpose tool that cats use for many things, such as balance, climbing, defense, kneading, playing, and self-expression.

The act of de-clawing itself involves more than you may think. De-clawing not only removes the nail itself, but also the first knuckle on each toe of the paw. This removal of bone is very painful for the animal, especially since it has to walk on its paws in order to sustain itself. The surgery itself is related to disfiguring, dismembering, and disjointing the animal, resulting in severe pain. It is much more closely related to an amputation, as often the digits of the toe are removed. Upon removal of this end digit, sensory and motor nerves are cut and destroyed; they do not grow back for months. The cat is left to walk on the stub end of the remaining second digit, experiencing considerable pain.

Understanding the physiology of the cat may make this horrific the process easy to comprehend. Cat’s nails are unlike those of humans. They are more similar to the human finger, as the feline nail is a movable digit, attached by muscle. Ligaments and tendons attach to the claw, giving it strength and motor function.

There are several alternatives to the procedure of claw removal:

* Scratching Posts. If scratching furniture is the problem, provide your cat with an adequate scratching post for which to scratch on. Make sure it is as tall as your cat at extended stretch. Do not purchase carpeted posts as your pet will have a hard time differentiating between what carpet she can and cannot scratch. Praise your pet when she uses the post to encourage the behavior.

* Discourage Wrongful Behavior. Each time your cat uses the scratching post, praise her and spend time playing with her near the post. When the animal scratches at the wrong area, say her name followed by the word “no,” and move her to the post. Try dangling a toy in front of the post. When the cat goes for it, she will end up scratching and playing at the post.

* Trim the Claws. Keeping the nails clipped will minimize the need for her to scratch, as well as lesson any damage she can do. Use clippers especially made for cats, and enlist the help of a second person to hold her still. This can be done once per week.

* Nail Covers. Plastic nail caps have been manufactured to aid cat lovers in their attempts to protect their belongings. The plastic sheaths are attached to freshly trimmed claws with glue. They are replaced every month, or as needed.

De-clawing your cat is unnecessary if the proper measures are taken. In fact, the United States and Canada are the only countries where this procedure is performed. It is considered inhumane or illegal in most places.

About The Author

David Beart is the owner of http://www.professorshouse.com. Our site covers household finances, dogs, cats, family, cooking and other household issues.

1. How to check the ears

During petting, casually check your cats ears for discharge, redness, unpleasant smell, swelling, and even lumps. Also observe your cat’s behaviour, if he often scratches or paws at his ears (and sometimes even shakes his head often), then he might be feeling discomfort in the ear area.

If you notice that your cats ears are becoming painful or inflamed, visit a veterinarian as soon as possible. The veterinarian has the equipment to look deep into your cat’s ear canal and give an accurate diagnosis. The veterinarian will determine if allergies, skin conditions, ear mites, bacteria, yeasts, and fungi are causing ear diseases. Seek early treatment, or your cat’s ear condition may become too late to heal.

2. How to clean the ears

Ask your veterinarian for gentle ear cleaning solutions you can use to keep your cats ears clean. These special solutions are effective in removing excess wax, moisture, and debris from your cat’s outer ear canal. Be sure to use only solutions that are specifically formulated for cats. Avoid medicated solutions, unless your veterinarian advises you to use it.

Different solutions are administered differently, but most of them require you to follow these steps.

* You typically only need a few drops of the ear solution. Squeeze the bottle and let a few drops fall on into your cat’s ear canal.

* Start massaging the base of your cats ear gently. You should hear a ‘squelch’ while you do this. Repeat the same procedure with the other ear. After both ears have been cleaned, let your cat shake its head, this loosens the waxes.

NOTE: Stop massaging immediately if your cat feels pain, and then take your cat to the veterinarian if you haven’t already done so.

* Wipe the solution by wrapping your forefinger with cotton wool, this should clean off wax and debris. Do this gently though and do not poke in too deep, or you might hurt your cats eardrum.

It is recommended not to use cotton buds, which can injure the ear canals’ sensitive lining.

About The Author

Drew Pilton is the writer of ‘The Complete Ragdoll Cat Keepers Handbook, to find out more visit:

http://www.ragdoll-cat-care.com

A lot of potential adopters seem to think of an adult cat as second best, as if they are defective or worn out like a second hand car. That’s just not the case. Most adult cats have found themselves in animal shelters from no fault of their own. They may have out lived their owner, their owners may have moved to somewhere that doesn’t allow pets, become lost or someone in the family may have become allergic to them. The reasons are far to numerous to list them all. The cats themselves are perfectly healthy animals, bristling with fun and energy and simply looking for a caring loving home.

Adopting an adult cat has many advantages. Remember an older cat has already developed its personality. So you will know what kind of pet they will be and whether or not they will suit your family. Many people go for the cute little kitten; only to find out that they grow into a very shy and non-playful cat that likes to spend all it’s time away from the family. That’s fine if that’s what you want, but too many people decide that this is not for them and returns the cat to the shelter. Rejection is a very harsh punishment for the cat just because you didn’t take the time to think about what sort of cat would be the right pet for your family.

An older cat will also be less demanding of your time than a kitten and will require less supervision, well after the first few weeks anyway. They will be able to spend time alone when you are out of the house without getting into too much trouble and hopefully will already be litter trained.

There are also many benefits for older owners in adopting an adult cat. Adult cats are much calmer and more likely to want to spend some quiet time sitting on your lap for strokes and purring. Studies have shown that cats can have a real health benefit for humans in reducing their stress levels and blood pressure. I can’t image an energetic curious kitten being as good for your stress levels somehow.

Many worry about health problems and vet bills for the older cat. Usually when you are adopting a cat from an animal shelter they will be able to let you know if the cat has any underlining medical conditions and what it is likely to cost. Many will even provide you with free medical treatment for your cat if they over 10 years old as an incentive for more of the older cats to be re-homed.

Cats can live well into their late teens and even early twenties with all the advances in food nutrition and medical treatments. So that 12 year old cat waiting in the animal shelter for a good home is still a good bet and will still be able to provide you with many years of fun and love. Our own cat is now 14 years old and still behaves like a playful youngster and keeps us entertained for hours.

It can be a very rewarding experience to adopt an older cat, not only because of the pleasure they will give you over the years but also in the knowledge that you have provided a loving home for what was probably a very frightened and confused cat, who had no idea why he had lost his family.

About The Author

Kate Tilmouth
You will find more cat health and cat care advice on Kates website
http://www.our-happy-cat.com A feline friendly community full of advice and fun to make sure you have a happy cat and a happy you.

Copyright 2007 Kate Tilmouth

Here is how a few of some of the most common “human foods” become harmful for pets:

Chocolate and other foods containing caffeine

Caffeine is one of the greatest culprits because it contains an alkaloid called theobromine. Theobromine acts as a cardiac stimulant and a diuretic, which in turn can cause a heart attack or other heart and nervous system problems in animals.

Onions and Garlic

Onions and garlic are potentially harmful due to the fact that both contain thiosulphate, which can damage red blood cells and cause anemia in cats and dogs. Of the two, onions are the most toxic, as consumption of simply one serving by your pet could result in anemia.

Milk

Milk can harm your pet due to the fact that many dogs and cats tend to be lactose intolerant. The consumption of milk and milk products by a lactose intolerant pet creates a breeding ground for bacteria, causing vomiting and diarrhea.

Bones

Bones, although commonly known as a great treat for your dog, are potentially very dangerous for pets. Once eaten, bones can splinter and get stuck in the intestines, causing damage or fatality. In most splinter cases, the bones must be removed surgically.

Other Foods

Other human foods to avoid when feeding your pet are: macadamia nuts, potato peelings and green-looking potatoes, rhubarb leaves, moldy/spoiled foods, alcohol, yeast dough, tomato leaves and stems, broccoli, and raisins or grapes.

Some human foods potentially cause only mild digestive upsets, while others can be fatal. Regardless of the level of danger, the best choice for your pet is to keep him from any potentially harmful foods in order to ensure his health and safety.

During the holiday season, veterinary clinics have noticed a rising in the number of pets that they treat for food-related illnesses. The increase in pet illness is due to the fact that animals are partaking in human foods during mealtime. Although not well known by the public, the consumption of human food to pets is potentially harmful to animals, and in some instances, can be fatal.

The rise in food-related illnesses by pets is a clear indication that the dangers of human food consumption by animals are not understood by the masses.

So, the next time your pet looks up at you with those pleading eyes, show him you care by doing what is truly best for him and feeding him only products meant for pet consumption. In the end, both you and your pet will be glad that you did.

About The Author

Paul Counts and Tyler Clinton are the owners of http://Petronic.com and the editors of http://www.leadingedgepetcare.com. They are both passionate pet owners and entrepreneurs, and they provide a variety of high end pet supplies at http://www.petronic.com.

Besides giving each cat their own unique distinction, whiskers are a functional part of a cat. Whiskers are a sensory system for cats made up of nerve endings that allow them to feel the lightest touch, even an air current.

Cats are known to be farsighted and they will use their whiskers to move around in those areas that they are not able to see clearly. Even cats that are blind or their vision is deteriorating will rely more on their whiskers to move about. Cats that are born with their vision impaired will often have longer whiskers to help them move around. If a cat were to lose their whiskers, they would more than likely bump into things.

You also can tell the mood of your cat from their whiskers. When your cat is calm you will see that their whiskers will be pushed forward. And if your cat is stressed out or is being defensive their whiskers will be pulled closer to their face.

If you have more than one cat, have you noticed that the whiskers of each of them are not the same? The length of a cat’s whiskers even varies between breeds. I currently have three cats and have noticed that each one has whiskers that are different in length to the others. I have also noticed that Tiggy my oldest cat has a few whiskers that are not all white, but have some black in them. While the other two, Leena and Cooper, have whiskers that are all white.

Most of us see the cat’s whiskers above their eyes and around their mouth, also called muzzle. But did you know that they also have whiskers on the back of their front legs or what would be considered their wrists. I never knew that, but after I read about it, I looked on mine and they have them. They are not as long as the whiskers on their face, but they have them.

Whiskers do get very long and some people are tempted to trim them thinking that they should be to help the cat. But whiskers are never to be trimmed, cut, or any other method of removing them. The cats do have nerve endings in the whiskers and they will feel the trimming and it will not be pleasant for them. Have you ever touched one of the whiskers on your cat’s face? Did you notice them blink or twitch? It is because their whiskers are very sensitive and should be treated with care.

Whiskers can be ticklish when applied to us in the right fashion, and they are a very distinctive characteristic on a cat. We should always leave a cat’s whiskers alone, as they are their guide to moving around.

About The Author

Sharon Cowherd maintains Caring for Your Cat, a blog about her experiences and knowledge of caring for her cats. You can read more about Sharon and her cats at http://www.caringforyourcat.com